Serves 6

For quail:
6 quail
2 tablespoons plus 1 tablespoon rendered chicken or lamb fat, or olive oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 leek, cleaned and thickly sliced
1 shallot, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

For flatbreads:
2 cups barley flour
1/4 cup rendered chicken or lamb fat, or Crisco
1 teaspoon salt

For garnish:
1 bunch watercress
1 clove garlic, halved
Vinegar to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

With a boning knife, carefully remove the quail's legs from the bodies of the birds and set aside. Place the quail in a stockpot along with 2 tablespoons of fat, the vinegar, leek, shallot and garlic. Add water to cover. Bring to a bare boil, then reduce heat and gently simmer, partially covered, until tender but not falling off the bone, about 15 minutes. Removed to a dish and cover to keep warm.

Place quail legs on a roasting pan and coat with remaining tablespoon of fat. Place in oven and roast until browned, turning once - about 15 minutes.

For the flat breads: mix together the 1/4 cup fat, barley flour and salt, then gradually stir in enough of the broth to make a pliable dough. Form the dough into 6 balls and cover them with plastic wrap to keep them from drying out as you work. Meanwhile, oil and heat a 12-inch skillet.

Sprinkle a clean surface with barley flour and roll out into a 6-inch circle. Transfer this circle to the hot skillet and cook, turning once, until the dough is cooked through, about a minute per side. There will be blackened scorch marks on the bread. Repeat with other 5 rounds, re-oiling the pan if necessary to prevent sticking.

To serve, place a poached quail atop each flatbread. Rub breast with half clove of garlic and sprinkle with vinegar. Arrange roasted legs alongside the body. Garnish plate with watercress.

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